THE GRENADIER PUB OF LONDON

Photo by Peter J. Cooper

Tucked away at 18 Wilton Row in the heart of the Belgravia neighborhood of London is the Grenadier, a historic watering hole that captures the essence of classic British pubs. Opened in 1818, it’s renowned for its rich history, loyal customers, British fare, and its outstanding curated beer selection. I found the Grenadier based on the recommendation from a friend, and as I approached the building, I was immediately captured by its mere existence – an unpretentious old three-story building bathed in white paint and accented with royal blue and red that seems beautifully out of place among high-dollar townhomes, embassies, 5-star hotels, and Michelin-rated restaurants. Its secluded location adds to the charm because you simply are not going to find this place unless you’re looking for it, which you’ll find along a dead-end cobblestone road that’s lined with beautifully preserved mews from London long ago. It’s exactly what I was looking for, and I couldn’t wait to walk up the steps and order a beer.

The Grenadier’s story begins in 1720 as the officers’ mess for the senior infantry regiment of the British army, the 1st Regiment of Foot Guards, later named the Grenadier Guards after their triumph at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815. It opened to the public three years later as The Guardsman, and then it was renamed The Grenadier to honor the regiment’s bravery. The pub’s military heritage shines through its decor, with Grenadier Guards memorabilia, and paintings and prints adorning its wood-paneled walls. A red sentry box outside adds to the nostalgic charm. Legend has it the pub is haunted by a young officer who was beaten to death for cheating at cards. Patrons have plastered the ceiling with banknotes from all over the world to settle the subaltern’s debt. Not too many pubs have modern history, but the Grenadier certainly does. The pub’s name inspired the INEOS Grenadier, the rugged off-road vehicle created by INEOS Automotive, founded by Sir Jim Ratcliffe, a regular patron who hatched the idea over a pint in the pub. Like many, Ratcliffe was unhappy with Land Rover’s newly designed Defender, and longing for the halcyon days of a time not long ago when Land Rover absolutely nailed it with the design of their old Defenders, Ratcliffe set out to launch a car company to build his own version. In 2022, Ratcliffe’s INEOS acquired the pub from brewer and pub operator Greene King, cementing its legacy in Belgravia. While the pub displays no overt references to the vehicle, there was a beautiful Queen’s Red INEOS Grenadier parked outside, drawing attention from the beer-loving auto enthusiasts.

With patrons spilling out of the pub and into the street, it’s clear the Grenadier has a devoted following of regulars, including Belgravia residents, locals, tourists, and military history enthusiasts who cherish the pub’s intimate setting and historical significance. Historically, the pub could count on the Duke of Wellington and King George the IV as patrons who liked to step away for a pint or two. When I approached the Grenadier, I went up the steps and got into a short queue to order my beer and found myself taking in all the elements inside the bar that make this place special. Behind me were two gentlemen from South London, Steve and Pete, who sensed it was my first time at the pub, and we engaged in delightful conversation, with them guiding me toward ordering a London Pride which many say is the quintessential British ale. Steve and Pete were popping in for a pint or two before they were heading off to Hyde Park to see Van Morrison, Cat Stevens and Neil Young – an amazing line up that still has me wondering why on earth I didn’t grab a ticket and go. I found a table near the bar and invited the guys to join me, and they shared with me stories about the British Navy (Pete is a veteran), Crystal Palace and Chelsea football, the movie musical Scrooge with Albert Finney, classic rock, jazz and of course ales. Like it is with everything in life, time ran out and my new friends were on their way for a night in the park. You know you’re in a great place when you can arrive alone and leave with friends wishing you well. In my previous journal stories, I spoke about traditions and how important they are to mark the time and to share with those around us. The Grenadier has leapt to the top of my list of favorite London pubs – and I’ll be sure to return the next time I’m in London to start a new tradition. And I didn’t even try to the food.  PJC