ROUGHOUT COWBOY BOOTS

Photo by Peter J. Cooper

Growing up in Texas, there was a certain kind of cool that went with wearing classic American roughout cowboy boots. Few wore them, but those who did had an unmistakable kind of cool about them. This was a cool that was mixed with toughness, and not a big-and-strong kind of toughness, but more like a fearless kind of toughness – the kind you simply can’t teach. And in essence, that perfectly describes classic roughouts.

Classic western cowboy boots trace back to the mid-19th century American West, evolving from Spanish vaquero riding boots and English Wellington styles. Early designs emphasized functionality for ranch work: high shafts to protect legs, pointed toes for stirrups, and underslung heels for stability on horseback. Roughout suede cowboy boots, known simply as roughouts, are a rugged variant of traditional western cowboy boots. Unlike standard cowboy boots made from smooth leather with the grain side out, roughouts feature the flesh side (or "nap") of the hide facing outward, giving them a textured, suede-like appearance while retaining the full grain's durability. Roughout leather is essentially full-grain cowhide turned inside out, preserving the dense corium layer for strength and water resistance - unlike true suede, which is split from the underside and is thinner and less resilient. This construction combines the softness of suede with superior toughness, making them ideal for demanding environments, rodeos, and late nights in hole-in-the-wall honky-tonks.

Roughout suede emerged as a practical innovation around the late 1800s, coinciding with decorative stitching on boots. It gained traction among working cowboys, rustlers, and frontiersmen for its ability to conceal scratches, scuffs, and wear from daily hazards like thorns, rocks, and livestock. Unlike polished smooth leather, which showed damage easily, roughouts’ napped surface blended imperfections, extending the boot's lifespan in harsh conditions. By the mid-20th century, as Hollywood westerns popularized cowboy boots, roughouts appeared in films and on television regularly, symbolizing authenticity. Clint Eastwood famously wore roughouts in his Dollars trilogy. And the king of cool, Steve McQueen, wore roughouts in his western television series Wanted: Dead or Alive. Soon after, brands began incorporating them into lines for ranchers and rodeo participants, blending utility with emerging style. Today, roughouts evoke vintage Western heritage, connecting modern wearers to the gritty realities of the cowboy life.

Quite a few American heritage bootmakers have produced roughout cowboy boots over the decades. And lately, the boots have come to represent a certain kind of style for the sartorial crowd from New York City, to Houston, Round Top and Austin, to Santa Barbara. Today, you’ll find roughouts made in either Texas or in Mexico from Justin Boots, Tony Lama, Nocona, Chisos, Anderson Bean, Olathe, and Drew’s Boots. Over the years, I’ve discovered that fancy cowboys who wear boots with fine hides and exotic leathers don’t really understand or appreciate just how amazing roughouts become over time as they develop an unmatchable patina. But Ralph Lauren does, as his RRL brand makes fantastic roughout boots if you’re willing to pay up for it. Whenever you see photos of Ralph at his RRL Ranch in Colorado, you can bet he’s wearing roughouts.

Recently, I took a walk along South Congress Avenue in Austin looking for roughouts and discovered they were no longer being sold by Tecovas who made them in Mexico for a while but recently stopped producing them. The bigger disappointment came next door when I walked into Lucchese. Lucchese roughouts were standard issue in the 70s and 80s and the epitome of the cool, classic roughout. Later they were carried by their 1883 line in the 2000s. Now it seems Lucchese only caters to fancy dudes with creases in their jeans, which aren’t the same cool dudes who’d wear roughouts. I couldn’t get out of that store fast enough. Thankfully that escape led me to the famous Allen’s Boots a few doors down. It was in here that my faith in the cool American cowboy was revived as they sell outstanding Mexican-made honey-colored classic roughout cowboy boots. And they’ve got plenty. These things should come with an ice-cold six-pack of Lone Star beer.  PJC